Zedrider
Like Zedrider here -
  • Home
  • Brochures, Images & Movies
    • Brochures & Posters >
      • Two Stroke Triples
    • Gallery
    • Kawasaki Movies
    • Desktop Wallpaper
    • Zedrider Posters
    • 1973 Z1 Photo Set
    • 1974 H2 Photo Set
  • Bike Rebuilds
    • Z1
    • Z1-A
    • Z1-B
    • Z1-R >
      • Fuel Tank
    • Z 650 B >
      • Exhaust System
      • Carbs & Airbox
    • Z650 Custom
    • ZRX 1200R
    • ZRX Special
  • Parts & Contacts
    • Useful Contacts
    • Cool Parts
  • Manuals & Articles
    • Service & Owners Manuals
    • Magazine Articles
    • Tank Protection
Top

Picture
Z1-R 1978's King Kawasaki
This 1978 machine lived in Italy until 1995 when it was brought to the UK.
The Z1-R was top of the Kawasaki range for 1978, including many upgrades that were being sold as after market parts for the Z1000 models.
It contained many firsts for Kawasaki - such as multiple drilled brake rotors.
The Z1-R is now recognised as the first Japanese Café Racer - and it has become very sought after around the world.



Picture
Transmission Detail
Original chain & sprockets in unworn condition is a good sign of low mileage.
The inner transmission cover is all intact and the correct nuts, bolts and fasteners seem to be all there.
Happy Days !!

Picture
Sound Dampening Foam & Baffle
These bikes had thicker crankcases and extra sound damping inside the engine cover - to reduce engine and transmission noise.
Years of chain lube have kept the internals in good condition.

Picture
Electrical Items behind fairing
There is much more electrical equipment behind that sleek new fairing - compared to the original Z1 models from 1972 onwards.
The Z1-R featured self cancelling turn signals, a fuel level gauge and an ammeter in the cockpit display. More firsts for Kawasaki at the time.


Picture
Rear fender with damper plate attached
More signs of the extra build quality and sound deadening here -  The rear fender is moulded from abs and has a metal damper plate built into the underside.
You can just see the four small retaining screws in this shot.

Picture
Fender damper & fairing brackets
Here is the damper plate from the rear fender - removed and re-zinc plated ready for re-assembly. We left the tiny screws on the plate during the zinc process, so they would not get lost !!
The other brackets in this shot support the fairing where it joins the frame.

Picture
Footrests & fittings
The rear footrest hangers have a long threaded shaft. The right hand one holds the bracket for the 4 into 1 silencer in place.
They are inserted through the frame in the place that early Z1 frames use for mounting twin mufflers on each side.
The correct finish for the brackets is an olive drab effect.

Picture
Footrests re-finished
Here are the footrests and newly finished rear brackets ready for re-assembly.
remember to fit a large flat washer between each rubber and it's bracket.
The front footrest brackets will be re-painted in the correct black finish later.

Picture
Rear Footrest comp[onents
Time to re-assemble the rear footrests. The correct m10 x 13mm nuts are used to fix them to the frame. There is a large chrome plated dome washer that covers the damper rubber where the bracket meets the frame.
It is shown here but is not in the parts diagram for the bike.

Picture
Rear Footrests Complete
The rear footrests are now ready to go back onto the machine.
They can be stored away like this until the time is right.
We will finish off the split pins when we have checked how they look on the bike.

Picture
Front Footrest components
The front footrests have these damper rubbers inserted into the bracket - BEFORE the brackets are assembled onto the machine.
Once fitted they will be covered by these four domed washers and 13mm nuts and will not be seen.
Check the rests and brackets on the bike to make sure you assemble them right. The split pin fastener should be underneath the bracket out of sight.

Picture
Front Footrests Complete
The front footrests are now ready to go back onto the machine.
The right footrest has to be tucked up if the emergency kick start lever is attached to start the bike.
The studs they fit onto have a narrow 14mm nut on the inside of the frame to retain them.


Picture
Rear brake adjuster
The rear master cylinder brake action is adjustable via this arrangement on the 1978 model. I think the D3 version from 1980 used a slightly different rear master cylinder.

Picture
Brake parts ready for zinc plating
Here are a few brake parts - cleaned up and ready for zinc plating.
The threaded adjuster on the brake arm had to be soaked in penetrating oil to free it off after all those years.
The small spring and split pin are left attached to the brake switch link - so they don't get left behind in the zinc plating barrel.

Picture
Finished brake parts
Here are some of the brake components - back in their factory zinced finish and ready for re-assembly.
The banjo bolts for brake unions have been superseded at Kawasaki - to a black item with a countersunk head. It will do the job, but looks nothing like the originals shown here. They have a zinc finish and a 14mm plain bolt head.


Picture
Rear Brake Lever
The rear brake lever has cleaned up well.
It will not need to be chrome plated again.
Great news !!
This needs to be re-fitted before the swinging arm - to give good access to stretch the awkward return spring.


Picture
Brake Lever Components
The components go together like this when they are back on the bike.
The domed nut secures the lever onto the frame.
Grease the shaft before fitting the lever.


Picture
Return Spring Position
The return spring hooks over the lever like this when fitted.
You need to get maximum upward rotation of the brake lever to slacken the spring as it goes over the frame.
Beware of damaging the paint as it goes on. You can use tape or card to stop scratches - and pull it out afterwards.


Picture
Missing electrics & a wheel
Here is the bike during restoration. The swinging arm is out for re-painting and the rear footrest holders on the frame are taking the strain for now.
The front axle is out for refurbishment and a socket lever is taking it's place.
All the electrics are off the bike for a clean, check and any refinishing that is needed

Picture
Candy box selection
The rear axle is now ready for re-assembly onto the swinging arm - when it's new paint has gone nice and hard.
Our local candy shop donated plastic containers for all the fresh zinc plated fasteners to be sorted into.


Picture
Painted parts de-rusted
Here are some of the black painted parts before re-painting.
Front middle is the kick start lever cover. On this model the lever is stowed under the seat for emergency use only.
We are using a new stop lamp bracket without rear indicator stems.
The battery box and electrics panel will need damper rubbers and metal collars to be fitted before they can accept their components.


Picture
Stands & torque arm
Here are some of the larger painted items ready to go back onto the machine. You can see the rear brake torque arm, front footrest hangers and a bracket from behind the headlamp which holds block connectors in place.
The small satin black holders keep the heat shields in place on the power chamber (collector box).
Can you tell the ones we painted from the professional ones ?


Picture
Side Stand Bolt
The side stand bolt had no retaining nut fitted.
 It just span round instead of unscrewing.
We had to cut it off and grind out the shaft until it could be removed.
The threaded hole at the rear of the stand was tapped to clean up the threads.
New bolts and nuts are still available.


Picture
Spring Puller
The main stand is back on now.
Fit it before the swinging arm to give clearance for the spring puller.
The foam will stop the stand hitting the frame until the silencer bracket stop is back on. The foot lever is shorter for Z1-R than the Z1 - due to there being no muffler on that side.
You can see our puller tool - made from a steel coat hanger.


Picture
Battery box & electric panel
Here is the battery box and electrics panel ready for re-fitting.
The three brackets to the right are a battery retainer and the two airbox supports - which join together in front of the battery.
We can't wait to get some of the electrical items and the wiring loom back where they belong now.


Picture
Battery box dampers
The battery box needs ten rubber dampers to support the battery.
The four dampers to the right have a collar inside and insulate the battery box from the frame to reduce vibration damage to the electrical system.


Picture
Battery box assembled
Here are the rubbers in place. We have assembled the rear engine brackets to show you how they support the front of the battery box when on the bike.
The air box support is visible at the front of this shot.


Picture
Electric Panel dampers
Fit these two dampers to the centre holes in the electric panel.
It is quite a tight fit to get them in - make sure you can spin them freely when you are done. Fit the two metal collars AFTER the dampers are back on the panel.
Now you are ready to re-fit the components.


Picture
Electric Panel components
You have to fit all these components onto the panel.
Some before photos help to show us how they went together.
Now is the time to check and clean them all.


Picture
Connector Block cleaned up
The connector block is separated and cleaned.
The original finish on many of the parts is still amazing !!
Check inside the connectors for corrosion and signs of overheating.


Picture
Great original Solenoid
The solenoid has two dampers with collars where it bolts onto the panel.
You can see how well the factory finish has been preserved over the decades.
Even the factory sticker is in great condition.


Picture
Original Rectifier & markings
The rectifier has also cleaned up well and needs no re-painting.
1978 factory markings are still present and in good order.
Block connectors are colour coded to prevent foul ups.


Picture
Main Fuse Box cleaned
The main fuse box has a rubber damper at the back.
This slots onto the electric panel bracket.
The box is then on it's side when you look at it.
Spare fuses are carried inside  the lid.
** You can get the correct spare fuses from our Cool Parts page above**


Picture
Rebuilt Electric Panel
The components are all fitted back onto the electric panel now.
There will be one extra relay mounted top right when the wiring harness is back in place.
There are two metal hooks at lower rear of the panel.
They support the harness as it passes and stop pressure on the connections causing problems.


Picture
Complete Electric Panel & Battery Box assembly
The electric panel has now been mounted onto the side of the Battery box.
We will clean up and add on the regulator later.
All the components can be stored like this until we re-fit them.
This makes sure we have found out all the correct fittings and we know how they go together. When the frame is in the way it is not so easy to tell !! 


Picture
Battery Box & Electric Panel Re-Fitted
This is how the unit will look on the machine.
You can see the airbox support protruding at the front.
A relay will need to hook over the top right of the electric panel when the wiring harness is back on.

.


Picture
Re-finished seat pan
Here is the re-finished seat pan.
It needs warning decals, a new foam, strap and a seat cover from Japan.
Luckily the base was solid with all spikes intact.
The kick start lever cover, seat lock bracket and two front seat to frame locating brackets will all need to be bolted back into place.


Picture
Front Axle Clamps
The front axle is back in place.
The retainers have an arrow underneath which must face forward.
Tighten the two front clamps until there is no gap.
When you tighten the rear ones there will be a slight gap - that is correct.
Apply correct torque before riding !!


Picture
Oil Pan Inspection
The oil pan needs to be removed for cleaning out and inspection.
Nearly four decades worth of oil sludge will have built up.
The baffle gate stops oil being thrown back under acceleration, but traps sediments in the rear of the sump.
Flushing & changing your oil will not work here - as you can see.
Also inspect the strainer gauze under the oil pump - it can get blocked and this is your only chance to see it !!


Picture
Oil Filter Spring & Washer
Four O rings need changing during this operation.
Make sure you have the spring and washer fitted on the filter bolt in this order.
That will locate the filter correctly against the crank case.
The washer can easily get stuck to the base of your old filter and be thrown out by mistake !!
Change the large O ring here and the small one on the head of the filter bolt.


Picture
Oil Pan & O Rings
Now change this large O ring and the small one on the head of the sump drain plug. Then you have done all four.
The head of our drain plug was rounded off and filed for a flat spanner.
We will get a new one for the rebuild.
Make sure you get one with a magnetic core. This will catch any stray metal filings in your oil


Picture
New Chain Guards - available here
You can get a new Z1-R chain guard from our Cool Parts page if you need one.
Our 1978 original got a bit chewed up by the tyre on the inner edge.
So we are going to fit one of ours to improve things.
They are an exact copy so they fit straight on.


Picture
Rear Tyre contact marks
You would be surprised how common this kind of damage is.
The inner side of the chain guard is held in place between three brackets on the swinging arm  - to stop it contacting the rear tyre.


Picture
Inner chain guard brackets
The inner edge of the chain guard must be fitted to go in between the two front brackets shown here.
At the back of the bike it locates inside the U shaped retainer you can see.
The next image shows how it will look when correctly located.


Picture
Retainer Brackets fitted correctly
This is what you should see when the chain guard is located correctly.
The other side will line up with the two M6 bolt holes.
Take a good look before the guard goes in and feel for this shape with your hand.
The frame will be in the way - which is why a lot of guys get this wrong.


Picture
Chain Guard fittings
The rear fitting has a 20mm plain washer and a shouldered bolt.
The front fitting has a spacer washer fitted inside the guard, and an M6 x 18mm bolt with plain head to hold it on. The external plain washer is also 20mm
These correct fittings rarely survive as the chain guard will have been on and off for lubing and chain replacement over the years.


Picture
Swinging Arm with fittings
The swinging arm is ready to go back onto the bike now.
Here it is with all the fittings ready to attach.
The pivot bolt goes inside the tube to the right of the arm.
This sits inside two roller bearings.
The pivot bolt is zinc plated but it has a chromed nut which goes to the left of the machine (chain side).


Picture
Swinging Arm date code
The swinging arm has a date code stamped into it.
You can just make it out here.
Restorers look for this as a reliable way to tell if a bike is genuine.
Lack of wear on the pivot tube is another sign of low mileage.
Remember to re-fit the grease nipple and get plenty of grease inside BEFORE you offer up the swinging arm to the bike.


Picture
Helmet Lock components
The helmet lock bracket is attached between the right rear shock absorber mount and the upper rear frame tube. You need these two 8mm head bolts with captive lock washers to hold it together.
We have reproduced the original HELMET HOOK decal if you need one of those for your bike. You can get them on the Cool Parts page above.


Picture
Helmet Lock assembled
The barrel must be installed with key hole facing left - or the bracket will prevent access. Earlier models used the seat lock to secure the helmet hooks.
This was another Z1-R upgrade feature.
Because the bracket is not part of the frame the assembly often went missing over the years and is now a rare find. The key number should be visible by the key hole if the part is genuine.


Picture
Stop Lamp & Bracket
The stop lamp has cleaned up well.
The 1978 chrome finish looks great and the wiring is intact.
The bracket is finished in satin black and the U shaped rubber goes between the two pieces to reduce vibration.
You can see all the correct bolts, damper rubbers and collars here.


Picture
Stop Lamp & Bracket assembled
The bracket goes onto the lamp like this.
There should be a grommet on the wiring to prevent damage as it enters the frame space.
All the brass loom connectors will be cleaned and petroleum jelly applied - to give good contacts and prevent corrosion.


Picture
Licence Plate illumination
The underside of the lens is clear.
This acts to illuminate the licence plate.
The three damper rubbers & collars at the rear will need to go back onto the frame - BEFORE this assembly is re-fitted.
This unit can now be stored away ready for the rebuild.


Picture
Frame masked off for painting.
The frame is in nice condition but will get a coat of paint to freshen it up now.
Otherwise all the re-finished brackets and fasteners will make it look tired after three decades.
The original finish was cellulose spray paint over metal.
We are going to copy that but use a gloss finish.


.


Picture
Re-fitted Brake Pedal & Spring
Now the frame has hardened the brake pedal and spring need to go back on.
Do this whilst the swinging arm is out of the way - for access.
Hook the spring over the frame and then use a wire puller to flip the other end over the brake pedal.


.


Picture
Swinging Arm & Chain re-fitted
The endless chain MUST go on now - before the swinging arm goes in.
Loop it up out of the way like this - for protection - and to make space for the rear wheel and sprocket which are added next.

.
o


Picture
Rear Wheel and Sprocket
The rear wheel, sprocket and cush drive have been cleaned and inspected.
Grease the bearings before re-fitting to the swinging arm.
The original Z1-R rear sprocket was finished in this olive drab colour - unlike most Kawasakis at the time.

.


Picture
Back On Two Wheels Again
Here is the rebuilt rear of the bike.
The inner and outer fenders are fitted, along with the new stop lamp bracket.
The original warning decals are still intact and tidy so they will stay to provide a little "patina" effect.




.


Picture
Rear Brake Master Cylinder & Switch
The brake rod MUST be fitted to the pedal BEFORE the master cylinder is added to the frame. It is fitted with two 13mm number 4 bolts like this.
Correct oil bolts are zinced with a 14mm head like this. The new part from Kawasaki is black with a different head. Don't forget to use new crush washers on the hoses.
The switch hook sits behind the footrest bracket.


.


Picture
Original 1978 Regulator
The regulator fits to the right of the battery box - opposite the electric panel.
The connector is colour coded so that is easy.
This one has cleaned up well - even the factory sticker is still good.
You can test the voltage to the battery with the engine running to make sure the voltage is being controlled.

.


Picture
Rear Master Cylinder & Regulator fitted
Here is how the rear master cylinder links to the brake pedal.
You can also see where the stop lamp switch and regulator are fitted.
Our bike is getting new original brake hoses.
Remember to fit the brake pedal adjuster bolt with the head UNDER the bracket.

.


Picture
Forks after clean & service
The front forks have been washed out and the spring length checked  against service limits. Make sure to fit the rubber gasket and zinc plated ring at the bottom of the headlamp ears where they meet the bottom yolk.


Picture
Head Bearings Greased & Yolks fitted
The head bearings have been checked and re-greased and the top and bottom yolks are back on the frame ready to slide the forks in.
The manual says to use SAE 15W fork oil and fill with 180-188 cc if the fork is completely drained. You can dip the oil from the top of the fork for a final test - it should be about 420 mm from top of leg. 

.


Picture
Rebuilt front end
Here is the front wheel back in place. It is safer with this to bear the weight of the engine and frame whilst we continue working.
The fork inner seals are holding fine and we are just waiting on new outer dust covers - don't use your forks on the road like this please !!
The fork lowers got a polish whilst they were removed.

.


Picture
Front Engine Mounting Bolt
The front engine to frame mounting is done with this long bolt.
It's quite visible at the front of the motor so it has been re-plated.
The special locking nut fits to the generator side.

.


Picture
Removable Engine bracket
The front offside engine bracket detaches for engine removal.
These two bolts hold it to the down tube. They are supposed to be different lengths like this.

.


Picture
Bracket & Bolts Fitted
Fit the bracket with bolt heads facing out like this.
Then the long bolt can be threaded through & tightened. 

.


Picture
Airbox Rubbers & Drain Caps
The Airbox rubbers are marked up & L for number one cylinder or up and R for number four cylinder.
These two drain caps screw into the Airbox base. 

.


Picture
Drain Caps & PCV Tube
The drain caps are fitted here.
The PCV tube is visible at the front of the Airbox.
The large hole at rear is to take the silencer unit. These often got lost or removed in pursuit of performance.

.


Picture
Inner Grilles Shown
These metal grilles are behind each hose.
You can fit the hoses without removing them. 


.

PictureCarb Cleaning & Inspection
The carbs got taken down and cleaned out.
The brass jets were removed and washed out in thinners.
Check the needle valve for wear at this point.
Carb cleaner spray can now be injected through the various passages.
The slide clearance can be set manually if the bike was running poorly before the strip down.



Picture
Re-fitted Carbs & Frame protection
The frame was masked for protection and the Airbox re-fitted.
You MUST do this before fitting the carbs. 


.


Picture
Meter Bracket
This bracket holds the meters.
The Z1-R has extra meters for fuel level and an ammeter.
Several rubber dampers are needed to protect the instruments.


.


Picture
Re-assembled Meters
Here is the rebuilt unit ready to go back onto the machine.
Now is the time to check that all those little bulbs are still working. 


.


Picture
Ammeter Testing
The ammeter can be tested like this.
Use an 8 watt bulb to protect the device during testing.

.


Picture
Meters Re-assembled
The meters are re-fitted to the bike, new silicon dampers will protect them from vibration.
The instrument cover goes on top of the fuel gauge and ammeter and just leaves a rectangle showing through.



Picture
Front Callipers for painting
The front callipers were stripped and prepared for re-painting.

.


Picture
Silver Parts masked off
Some parts should remain bright alloy with no paint.
These areas got cleaned up first - then masked off.
Before the painting started.

.


Picture
Silver parts revealed and holder fitted
Here is an assembled calliper - you can see the bright finish on the areas which were masked off now. The large zinc plated disc is a holder plate for the rear brake pad. These all got cleaned up and re-plated.
The holder bolts to the fork leg - it should be this olive drab color - not black painted or bright zinc plated.

.


Picture
Front Brake components
We collected new brake hoses from Japan. There is no upper hydraulic hose on the Z1-R because the master cylinder is cable activated.
There is just a short pipe from the master cylinder to the fluid reservoir inside the fairing.

.


Picture
Bleeding front brakes
Now the front brakes can be bled to recover the pressure in the system. We did both sides in turn and then left this set up overnight - for any remaining air bubbles to be expelled the next day with a final bleed.
The callipers had new inner and outer seals, plus new O rings on the holder shafts.

.


Picture
New Reservoir Cap screws
The screws which hold the fluid reservoir were past their best.
We got new ones from Kawasaki - in the correct finish.
You can see this cap inside the fairing on the left side.

.


Picture
Rear Calliper Components
The rear calliper has pins and clips to hold the pads in place.
It has two pistons, not like the front which has one.
That is because this calliper is fixed and cannot move.
A plastic cover stops rain getting inside from the top.

.


Picture
Masked off for Painting
The calliper is stripped and rubbed down ready for new paint.
We have masked off the areas which will stay as bright alloy.
Block the unions so no brake fluid can seep out to damage the new paint.

.


Picture
New Paint Finish
The calliper is sprayed underneath first.
Then it is hung up for the top edges to be sprayed.

.


Picture
New Components for the Rebuild
Here are the components needed to restore the calliper.
You can buy a pair of rear pistons with seals from our Cool Parts page.
The rare factory shims are often missing or corroded away on these bikes.
We are fitting new pads and pins to hold them.

.


Picture
Re-fitted Rear Calliper
The calliper is attached to the torque arm again now.
The plastic cover is clipped back on to cover the pads.
Don't forget to loosen the torque arm nut -
before you adjust the drive chain tension !!

.

PictureTank Stripped To Metal
The new gas tank was chemically stripped back to bare metal.
This made sure there was no damage, corrosion or filler that we did not know about. Three layers of primer went on, before the base coat.


PictureMasked For Striping
Templates were made to give correct pinstripe positions.
Then the panels were masked up ready for the stripes to be applied.
Original stripes were adhesive decals. On the tank they were lacquered, on the front fender they were stuck on in four sections with overlap at each corner.


PictureAir Brushed Stripes
The new stripes are applied with an airbrush.
This gives no overlap at the fender edges.
The gas tank and fender get the same treatment.
All the panels are then lacquered after the stripes are in place - to protect them from wear and any spilled gas.


PictureGas Tank Fittings Restored
The underside of the tank also got returned to the correct factory finish.
The low tank has an extra overflow pipe to drain the recessed fuel cap.
The Fuel gauge sender unit has electrical connections and a further overflow pipe.

PictureLow Profile Tank Repainted
This original 1978 low profile gas tank came as a spare with the bike.
It looks more elegant than the large touring tank which was fitted.
Although the distance between refuelling will now be reduced.
The tank is so low that the gas cap had to be offset to clear the frame.


PictureFairing & Screen
The fairing is repainted now. Two rubber trims attach to the screen. The rear trim is held by protruding plugs and the front trim is held by olive coloured bolts and black plastic nuts.
TIP - do not over tighten the screen bolts - or the fairing and screen may get cracked from the stress.




PictureFairing Brackets & Dampers
Here is the internal detail & fittings for the fairing.
The brackets will be hidden by the black inner fairing trim.
TIP - brass internal threads are fixed to the fairing. Apply grease or the zinc bolts can get stuck with corrosion.


PictureOriginal Paintwork To Match
The tail unit and side trims all came in good condition.
So they will just be polished and the emblems were touched in where they had lost any paint.
The newly painted panels are an exact match for this colour.


Picture
Power Chamber for Painting
The outer header pipes are welded to the collector box.
Kawasaki called it a "Power Chamber" on this bike.
We masked the chrome to protect it whilst the old paint was removed and the chamber given a good clean up.



Picture
Re-finished Power Chamber
Here is the re-finished unit.
High temperature paint is needed here.



Picture
Exhaust Fasteners re-finished
The exhaust fasteners all got re-zinc plated or re-painted in the correct black finish.
The rubbers to the left will hold the chamber to the frame.



Picture
Exhaust Components
Here is the front and middle of the system - with all the fastenings - ready to go back onto the bike.
These heat shields have been chrome plated, but the originals were in a black finish - similar to the collector box.



Picture
Front Pipe Assembly
The heat shields MUST be attached to the chamber BEFORE it is fitted to the bike. We used bubble wrap and cling film to protect the finish on header pipes and the painted chamber whilst they were being fitted.
Newspaper wrapped round the frame tubes will stop the header pipes marking the frame.

PictureHeader Pipe Detail
The down pipes and power chamber are fitted now.
Ensure the front fender is removed or protected when the pipes are attached.
TIP - Do final tightening of all clamps AFTER the muffler is fitted.


Picture
New Silencer & Seat Foam
To finish off the exhaust system we got a new muffler and bracket from Japan. This comes with the main stand stopper and a new silencer clamp.
The end cone will need the inner face painting black to match the original system.


PictureSilencer Masked For Painting
The silencer is masked up with a tube and tape.
All ready for the black heat resistant paint to be applied.


PictureSilencer Clamp & Flanged Bolt
The silencer is attached to the power chamber with this clamp.
The special bolt is flanged to spread the clamping force.
You can get these special bolts for us - see the Cool Parts page.


PictureSilencer Gasket Fitted
The gasket sits between the Power Chamber and the muffler.
The black clamp goes outside the muffler.
TIP - take care the rear footrest does not mark the top of the muffler when it is being fitted. Wrap it to stop any damage.


PictureNew Muffler Fitted
Here is the muffler fitted. Note how tight the gap is to base of rear foot rest.
You can see the painted end now. Use heat resistant paint to copy the factory finish.



Picture
Old & New Seat Covers
The seat unit was next on the list to refresh.
The old cover is shown at top here.
Our new one is for this model and came from Japan.
It will be fitted to the new foam and re-painted seat pan.



Picture
Seat Components
Here are the other seat components which have been prepared for the rebuild.
We have new warning decals to stick in place when it is complete.
The kick starter is stowed under the seat for emergencies.



Picture
Re-built Seat Assembly
This shows the new cover and foam - all fitted onto the re-finished seat pan


Picture
Restored Seat Base
The underside now has new rubbers for the front locating brackets.
The warning decals are now replaced. The under seat manual shows where these should go



Picture
Testing Seat Catch Position
Here is the seat - back on the bike and getting the seat latch adjusted.
The length and angle of the catch bracket controls how far forward the seat can move against the tank.
It also ensures that the three support rubbers contact the frame correctly.

PictureEngine Case & Emblem Painting
The side panel badges are getting touched up - where the black or white paint has chipped over the years. The engine covers have a DOHC logo on each side which needs highlighting with black heat resistant paint.

PictureLeft Engine Detail
The left side of the engine, carbs & pipes is complete now.
You can see the DOHC logo has been given a black background again to make it stand out.


PictureRight Engine Detail
The right side of the engine is also finished.
You can see the black highlighting on the outer points cover.
TIP - use a wooden kebab skewer or large cocktail stick to apply the paint without getting it onto the letters.


PictureRare Z1-R Documents
Here is the packing crate check list, a 1978 Z1-R service invoice and MOST RARE - a Z1-R UK Launch Day invite from Kawasaki.
These are all included in the bike history file, along with Tony Sculpher's excellent Z1-R Restorers Guide.


PictureAll Finished For 2015
Here is the completed rebuild.
The drilled brake rotors have been given a good clean up with scotchbrite.
The seat strap has not been fitted - because we like the clean low lines.

A new seat strap and fittings is included with the bike though.


PictureReady For Another 38 Years !
The larger touring gas tank will stay with the bike as a spare.
The engine fins have been left black at the sides - although the original factory finish was to reveal the silver alloy at the outer edges.
This look is inspired by the modern SANCTUARY Zed specials coming out of Japan now.


PictureThe Test Riders ! !
The Z1-R featured in a number of 1970's adverts.
This one is for LIFE helmets.
You can also get several scale models of the bike to build.
Perhaps you would like to build one yourself ? ?


PictureOff To A New Home
After a quick trip to get an MOT and an eBay advert our Z1-R was bought by a collector and soon heading up country.
Here she is - all loaded for departure.

PictureZ1-R Cutaway Illustration

Stay tuned for our next rebuild story.

Coming Soon


Go to Top of Page
Powered by Create your own unique website with customizable templates.